Kaohsiung
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Kaohsiung is Taiwan's big southern port, and it feels sunnier and more relaxed than Taipei. Old harbour warehouses have become art spaces, a short ferry reaches a beach island, and the MRT and light rail make it easy to get around. It's also quick to reach, with the high-speed train from Taipei taking about two hours.
At a glance
Best for: harbour walks, art, temples, night markets and winter sunshine.
How long: two to three days, plus a day for Fo Guang Shan or Tainan.
Getting around: two MRT lines cross at Formosa Boulevard, and a light rail loop serves the harbour. An iPASS or EasyCard works on all of them.
Seasons: October to April is warm and fairly dry. Summers are hot and stormy.
Good to know: high-speed trains stop at Zuoying, in the north of the city, and the MRT connects it to the centre.
Highlights worth your time
Pier-2 Art Center. Converted warehouses with galleries, public art, shops and cafés beside the harbour. It's free to wander the grounds, though some exhibitions charge. Allow a few hours, and the light rail stops right there.
Cijin. A long, narrow island reached by a ferry of about six minutes from Gushan, for around NT$30. Go for seafood, the lighthouse, the fort and a black-sand beach. Renting a bike is the easiest way around.
Lotus Pond. The Dragon and Tiger Pagodas and other colourful temples around a lake, near Zuoying. Tradition says to enter through the dragon's mouth and leave through the tiger's.
Formosa Boulevard Station. The Dome of Light is a huge coloured glass ceiling in the MRT interchange, and it takes just a few minutes to see as you pass through.
Love River. Pleasant paths, cafés and short boat rides that are at their best in the evening.
Fo Guang Shan. A vast Buddhist complex and museum about an hour outside the city, with an enormous seated Buddha.
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Food
Seafood is the local strength, especially on Cijin. Liuhe Night Market is central and touristy, while Ruifeng is more popular with locals but closes on some weekdays, usually Monday and Wednesday. Try papaya milk, seafood congee and duck noodles.
When to go
Kaohsiung's winters are its best feature, with mild temperatures and lots of sun when northern Taiwan is often grey. From about May to September it's hot and humid, with storms and a typhoon risk, so plan outdoor sights for the morning.
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How many days do I need in Kaohsiung?
Two days cover the harbour, Cijin and Lotus Pond. Add a third for Fo Guang Shan or a day in Tainan.
Can I visit from Taipei as a day trip?
It's possible by high-speed train, but tiring. One night or more gives you the evenings and night markets.
Where should I stay?
Formosa Boulevard is the most convenient for transport, Yancheng suits the harbour and Pier-2, and Zuoying suits trains.
Do I need a car?
No, not for the city. For Kenting and rural areas further south, a tour or rental car is easier.